Arthington Viaduct and the Bramhope Tunnel

Well this post all started when I went for a drive on a sunny day in order to get out of the house. I still can’t walk far due to the recovering ankle and lockdown due to Covid19 was giving me cabin fever. So I drove round one of my bike rides that takes in Dunkeswick, Weeton, Castley and Pool in Wharfedale and noticed a good photo opportunity of the Whafedale/Arthington viaduct.

That got me doing some research about it and the construction of the Bramhope tunnel just up the road from me.

The Bramhope tunnel was built between 1845 and 1849.  At the time of construction, it was one of the longest rail tunnels in the country and formed part of the ambitious Leeds and Thirsk Railway, that was designed to open up trade, between the burgeoning economies of West Yorkshire and the North East.

The proposed route faced several major obstacles, but perhaps none was greater than the ridge that lies between Airedale and Wharfedale, that required the building of the 2.138-mile (3.441 km) tunnel, that passes under the village of Bramhope, to link Horsforth with the Arthington Viaduct that takes the line over the River Wharfe to Harrogate and beyond. There was 20000 lines of track for the tunnel which was 25ft high and a depth of of 290ft.

The Navvies who did this back breaking arduous work were lowered down airshafts by bucket, worked by hand using pick axes and shovels in dark dank conditions with fear of flooding, landslips, falls, explosions and collapse. On a wage of 20 to 24 shillings a week; tunnellers earned 6 shillings a day.

Two sighting towers were built for the engineers to keep the line true, then from 20 October 1845 twenty shafts were sunk to enable access for tunnelling. Tunnelling started after the foundation stone was laid at the bottom of No. 1 airshaft in July 1846. The separate diggings first joined up into one long tunnel on 27 November 1848, and it was completed in summer 1849.

Above is one of the sighting towers which remains adjacent to Otley Old Road opposite the Bramhope Parish cemetery.

200 temporary wooden huts were constructed in the field opposite the parish graveyard on the old Otley Rd for the men and their families. Huts were home to up to 17 people!  As the tunnel digging was done in 12 hour shifts, 24 hours a day, seven days a week, you had in many cases the men sleeping ‘box and cox’ style, so as one man rolled out of his bed to begin his shift, another man rolled into it at the end of his.  Alongside the residential huts were offices, stonemason yards, joiner’s shops, explosive stores, stables, coal stores, saw mills and workshops for the brickworks. Records show that some of the workforce included, 188 quarrymen, 102 stonemasons, 732 tunnel men, 738 labourers, 18 carpenters, as well as around 400 horses.  This workforce was made up of farm labourers from Yorkshire Dales, North East England, East Anglia, and the Fenlands as well as Scotland and refugees from Ireland.

Ale and porter were sold regularly around the huts. However a decision by the company to stop this in an effort to increase productivity resulted in uproar from the workforce.

June 1846 saw a fight break out at Wescoe Hill cutting. Joseph Midgely the Railroad Inspector had to call in reinforcements to subdue 300 drunken navvies and the original resident force of one police inspector and one constable had to be increased.

Inspector Midgely’s reports are very illuminating, he noted that the masons, mostly local men, were quiet and well behaved, but difficulties occurred with those living in the rather overcrowded huts.  Midgely spent a lot of time on site, in and out of the workers homes and workplaces. To stop children running wild Midgely visited every home on site and listed the number of children within who could attend school.  There were 221 children, but the village school, opened on Eastgate in 1790 already had 40 children attending and only 10 vacancies. This is before the 1870 Elementary Education Act came into force so there was no legal requirement for children to be in school, but they were definitely in the way. Midgley estimated that for an expenditure of £20 another 40 spaces could be created. In 1847 a grant of £110 was made to the school.

23 men are know to have died. This was mainly due to flooding and collapses.

It is an amazing feat of civil engineering, one that played a large part in the industrial successes of Leeds as a city and one that we are still using today.

Then theres the Arthington/Wharfedale Viaduct over the River Wharfe

  • Span of arch: 60 ft (18.2 m)
  • Rise of arch: 21 ft (6.4 m)
  • Greatest height: 90 ft (27 m)
  • Lowest height: 60 ft (18 m)
  • Length of viaduct: 1510 ft. (460.2 m)
  • Width of roadway: 30 ft (9.1 m)[2]
  •  curve some 500 yards (460 m) in length, with 21 semi-circular arches
  • 50,,000 tons of stone

Below are exerts from newspapers at the time, which give an insight into what it was like working on the tunnel and viaduct.

York Herald Sept 1846 Engineers Report 

Bramhope contract – This contract extends from Carr – bridge to a point to the North side of Wescoe Hilll in the township of Weeton, being a distance of six miles. The principal works upon the railway are included in this contract. These consist of the tunnel under Bramhope Ridge, and the viaduct and other works on the vale of The Wharfe. Mr James Bray is also the contractor for third division of the line. Sixteen shafts are being put down, and several of them are sunk to the level of the tunnel and part of the tunnel itself formed. When these shafts are all completed the contractor will have it in his power to work from thirty two faces at the same time. The work is being carried on night and day and every exertion is made to have the works completed in the time specified. As respects the viaduct the North abutment is completed and the South abutment is about fifteen feet above the foundations. Five of the piers are completed to the level of the spring of the arch, and a considerable quantity of materials intended for the different parts of the work are upon the ground. One of the coffer dams for one of the two piers to be erected in the river Wharfe, has been completed. A considerable amount of stuff has also been laid out in the embankment. The drift-way of the short tunnel under Wescoe Hill has also been completed and the strata ascertained to be exceedingly favourable. The strata of the Bramhope tunnel is also favourable, so far as it has been ascertained, but the flow of water is more copious than was anticipated. Whilst the tunnel was under construction 1,563,480,000 gallons of water were pumped out.

Some of the bridges are completed and others in a very advanced state, and upon the whole the works upon this division whether considered with reference to the progress made, or the quality of the work, is satisfactory to me and very creditable to Mr. Bray the contractor.

During the last month there were about 2000 workmen and 300 horses employed besides those employed on the line in providing and bringing forward materials.

Bradford and Wakefield Observer 21st Oct. 1847, Fall of an Arch at the Wharfdale Viaduct – Two Lives Lost 

Considerable sensation was felt throughout Wharfdale on Tuesday morning last, owing to an alarm of several workmen having been killed by the fall of one of the arches of the Wharfdale viaduct of the Leeds and Thirsk Railway. The report as the fatality connected with the accident was, however somewhat exaggerated. The loss of life was not so great as was reported. Two young men only, named William Drake and James Verity fell a sacrifice.

The Wharfdale viaduct of the Leeds and Thirsk Railway is situate about a mile east of Pool and lies between Bramhope and the little village of Castley; the village of Arthington lying a short distance on the east of the viaduct. The valley at this point is a wide expanse; there being a distance of at least a mile and a half between the summit on the one side of the valley and that on the other The line of railway stretching from one side of the valley to the other is a high embankment nearly completed, meeting at each end of the extensive viaduct of 21 arches, in the lowest point of the valley. Workmen are busy at the “tip” of each embankment, which rises perhaps 50 feet and on each also a locomotive engine continually plies on the rails bringing from behind the distant hills on either side long wagon trains of ballast with which to fill up the short spaces between the ends of the embankment and the viaduct. The viaduct, as we have said, consists of 21 arches of various heights. Six on the south side or on the side nearest Bramhope, are already completed; the “centres” or supporters having been removed from three, the other three having, although just finished, the centres beneath them. Centres have also been placed beneath other three arches – Nos. 7, 8, 9, and the seventh arch was in the process of being quioned on Tuesday morning last, when it fell. Only a few stones had been placed on the 8th and 9th arches. The piers of the remaining twelve arches are all complete, but stand without centres; in fact, the mode seems to be to remove one at a time, three centres which have been standing during the time, other three arches have been completing, to the alternate three tiers or archways, and accordingly the centres beneath arches 7,8 and 9, have been recently removed from the first three arches; the next three keeping their centres till Nos. 7,8 and 9 are also finished. The 5th, 6th and 7th arches across the Wharfe, their piers rising from its bed, with a span of 60 feet and at the height of 70 feet above the surface of the water.

The 7th arch, which is 30 feet in width, was in process of being quoined on Tuesday morning. The key-stones had been applied to about 20 feet of arch, the mortar had been spread for the remaining 10 feet of key-stone, which had been first tried in the bed and found to fit the place for which it was designed. Some ten or twelve men were engaged on the top of the arch. This was a little before eleven o’clock. At this moment, however, a loud crash, as if from the breaking of timber was heard and in a moment Mr. Armytage Fairburn, the superintendent of the workmen, quickly ordered the men to flee for safety. The destruction, however was instantaneous; and before the bulk of the workmen could clamber from the archway, the centre beams gave way with a loud and terrible crash, and both the timber and the greater portion of the arch fell into the bed of the river. Two of the workmen, James Verity and Wiliam Drake, fell down with the stones and timber; one being at the top of the arch and the other on the “Golliah”, below the arch. The poor fellows were, at a short distance, observed falling with outspread arms to instant death.

Verity fell on his head against a large stone in the bed of the river and Drake fell, almost buried beneath stones and timber. When taken up, the leg of Verity was severed from his body; and the head of Drake was smashed to atoms. What was exceedingly remarkable is that the side of the arch which had been quioned alone fell, the other, the unquioned portion of it, a very narrow strip, remaining to span the way in a rude, broken and rickety condition! From that cracked and narrow archway, was left suspended one side of the “Golliah” a sort of ladder by which the workmen decended from the top to the gantry, or scaffolding beneath – and two workmen named Stephen Smith and James Murphy, were on the Golliah at the moment the other side of the arch fell. The poor fellows escaped from their perilous position in tremor and consternation that can be well imagined; proceeding up the ladder and across the remnant of the arch: The piece of the arch remaining is on the east side. The fear at the moment was that the arches adjoining were falling; but the rest, with their piers, happily remained in a firm position. They did not seem to have sustained any injury by the accident.

The loud and terrible crash was heard at a great distance and in the few minutes the temporary bridge over the river and beneath the fallen arch, was crowded with a large number of people and, during the day as report of the event spread, the numbers visited the site from various parts of the hills and the valley.

The bodies were, during the afternoon, removed to the house of Mr. Samuel Rhodes of the Malt Shovel, Castley. Verity was first removed for he was more readily obtained than Drake, who was partly covered with stone and timber. Both Verity and Drake are single men; the first being 22 years of age and a native of Otlley, the second being 21 and a native of Castley. The parents of both are living. The subcontractors under Mr. James Bray on this part of the line, Messrs. Garside and Parker, evince deep sympathy for the friends of the unfortunate men.

Workmen were yesterday employed in removing the stones and broken rafters from the bed of the river and little knots of people continued to arrive during the morning for the purpose of inspecting this scene of affecting fatility.

The inquest will be held at ten o’clock this morning before Mr. Brown Coroner of Skipton, at the Malt Shovel Inn, at Castley.

Adel in the snow and Redwing highlight.

(To get the best out of these photos you need to look on a laptop or desktop and click to enlarge them or at least an i pad).

After a day of snow, resulting in 6 inches here and gridlock in Leeds, we had a beautiful sunny day, perfect for a walk. A little wary with my recovering ankle, that’s still very tender in certain positions, I went carefully but with snow underfoot it made it soft, so as long as I didn’t slip, I would be fine. AND I did manage to stay on my feet. A great pair of walking boots really helps. https://www.meindl.co.uk/products/womens/womens-boots/

This is the lane behind our house looking very pretty.

Digital photography is brilliant you can snap away and get rid as you wish. Gone are the days when you had to get the right roll of film in your camera, either 12x, 24,or 36x photos, then send them off by post, for development and wait with excitement, to have them returned and find that half of them are over exposed or with a thumb in the way or someones head chopped off!

And guess where I ended up again? Yes St johns Adel. It is just so picturesque.

And I found a few more interesting graves.

The first gravestone shows John Walker who died in 1822 only aged 39, his son died the year after at the age 15 and then his daughter died the same year aged just 3. Wish I’d moved the snow to see when his wife died – the poor woman.

Next Mark Shaw of Horsforth died in1 1839 aged 26. A number of the graves give information of where the occupant lived too.

Richard Atkinson of Cookridge died in 1782 aged 59. This is an older grave that I don’t think Ive found before. His son died in 1799 at only 25 years.

The last one is another old one. Fanny died in 1757 at the tender age of 13. Then her sister in 1766 at an even more tender age of 11. The brother only reached the age of 26, dying in 1775. Their mother reached the ripe old age of 72, dying in 1789 and their father reached 70 years dying in 1797.

I just find the history here fascinating and very sad and am going to delve deeper and try to find out more about these lives.

I walked on down to Bedquilts Recreation Ground and got a few nice photos. Its a strange name and I haven’t found out why it is so called. Its a large area with football pitches, grass and nice mature trees. A lot of people exercise their dogs there. The snow was deep and gave my ankle and legs a work out.

Just on the last leg of my walk not far from home I was surprised to see a single Redwing bird on a hedgerow. Ive not managed to get a really good photo of a redwing and it let me get really close to it. It was the highlight of my walk.

They are beautiful thrush like bird with the red colour under the wings giving them their name. The come from Scandinavia in winter.

Snow Days and Adel Church Again

So we have had a few flurries of snow recently but it snowed all day yesterday. We must have had four or five inches and it makes everything look so clean and bright. It also deadens noise making everything so peaceful. Peaceful that is until all the adults get the sledges out for the kids, or at least that’s what they say! Big kids enjoy it more.

On with the under layers , coats, scarves and hats and out I ventured for another two and a half miler to Adel church. I wanted to capture it in the snow and I never tire of that place.

The last photo is of the grave stone for the children of James and Mary Anne Staples. Starting in 1848 ,Charles died aged 5, Alfred who died in the same year, just over three months later, aged 10months. Then in 1854 Sidney died aged 4 years old. In 1869 Rooney died, aged 16. Next, Ebeneezer succumbed in 1870 at the age of 14.

O my goodness, what tragedy befell this family. I will try to find out.

Broken Ankle Recovery

So, I broke my ankle on the 17th November 2020, whilst descending, with my bike, from Ilkley Moor. I spent 6 weeks in a pot (that’s a plaster cast for those of you southerners) up to just below my knee. Non weight bearing, so I had to use crutches which was painful on the shoulders and chest muscles for a while. We were also in lockdown, due to Covid 19, so there was not a lot I could do. I occupied myself with this blog, reading, playing my guitar, watching tv and playing on my x box, but theres only so much you can take of this routine. I was so relieved to get the “pot” off on the 31st December, but his is just the start of recovery. I found my heel hurt a lot when I put weight on it and the joint was incredibly stiff, which was only to be expected. So after a few days walking around the house and finding supportive shoes/boots, I had a wander around Ilkley. Next day i tried to walk down to Adel church – a distance of 2.5 miles in total. No way! I had to stop and come home after getting a third of the way there and I was soooo slow! I had baths and did exercises and today I put on my walking boots and made it, there and back! So pleased, but it did ache a lot after. So in the bath again and gentle exercises and rest.

Ive blogged about St Johns church Adel before. Hit the link. Its not only a beautiful place but so full of history. I took a few photos of things I have not done before and found an 18th century grave. In fact there were a few graves Ive not seen before covered by undergrowth by the wall on the right hand side. I didn’t investigate them this time due to the ankle.

The photos above are taken of items that have been found within the graveyard and are all by the gate as you enter. I don’t yet have any information on the items but they look like old graves.

There is so much information to be had from graveyards but not for much longer, as most people are now cremated and ashes scattered, often with no memorial and certainly not the information that was put on gravestones of the past. Look at that last photo all from the 1700’s and so young, yet the last to die was 80! The photo in the middle at the top is of new life poking their head out of the icy ground – spring is just around the corner.

I shall be back to investigate further.

BERLIN

Mike and I had a few days in Berlin, somewhere I’d always wanted to explore. It didn’t disappoint.

The bear is on the flag of Berlin city which took me a while to realise. The Trebant car can be hired but I passed on that. Checkpoint Charlie is a bit of a disappointment .

Remember you can click on the photos to see enlargements .

The Wall museum just further along from here is really interesting and I love the way  that the Germans don’t shy away from the horrors of the past.

A place steeped in history: the Deutscher Dom graces Gendarmenmarkt. But you ought to visit the exhibition inside – it’s definitely worth it.                       For many locals and visitors, the neo-classical Konzerthaus hall is Berlin’s most attractive venue for top-flight classical music. Here, right at the heart of the stunning Gendarmenmarkt square, you can enjoy an unforgettable classical concert experience.

The Brandenburg Gate is one of the most iconic sights in today’s vibrant Berlin. More than just Berlin’s only surviving historical city gate, this site came to symbolise Berlin’s Cold War division into East and West – and, since the fall of the Wall, a reunified Germany. Architecturally, the sandstone Brandenburg Gate also represents one of the earliest and most attractive examples of a neo-classical building in Germany.

When the decision was made to move the Federal Government to Berlin, it was time to reawaken the Reichstag building from its long years of slumber on the Mauerstreifen, the military zone between the two sides of the Wall. The building has since been completely modernised, and today’s visitors to the Reichstag can look out from the building’s glass dome to get a bird’s eye view of the hustle and bustle in the city.

The River Spree runs through Berlin and it is a lovely stroll alongside.

The Holocaust Memorial consists of an undulating field of 2711 concrete steles, which can be passed through from all sides. While walking between the columns of different heights and the labyrinthine corridors, visitors may experience a brief moment of disorientation, which should open up space for discussion. Beneath the memorial is the Information Centre, which documents the crimes of the Nazi era in themed rooms.

The memorial at first seemed a bit weird, but it is very effective.  I have to admit I found the accounts of survivors of the holocaust rather overwhelming and didn’t spend long in the information centre.  

At night Berlin was bustling.  We found some good craft beer bars.

The people were friendly, the atmosphere open and the public transport was cheap and regular.  Definitely recommend a visit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brimham Rocks

Its been a long time since I visited Brimham Rocks.  The area is owned by the National Trust.

A large mountain range stood nearby over 400  million years ago – erosion eventually created a huge river delta, the sands of which eventually created the rocks we see today.  Ice, rain and wind have created some wonderful weird and wonderful shapes.  The area also covers woods and moorland, with plenty of wildlife to spot with a bit of patience.

Theres a hut seeing drinks, cakes, snacks and sandwiches – hot and cold.  Theres also and information centre.

Beware the cost of parking though!  Unless you’re a National Trust member, you will pay £6 for four hours.

Here are some photos I just snapped.  Click on each photo to enlarge – they look much better.

 

New Zealand 2019

Below is a link to a website that has my New Zealand trip documented on it. You use an app called Polar Steps to record your travels. Its brilliant – you can give people a link that enables them to travel with you as you keep a diary, adding photos, every day. Then when you get home you can relive it all again.

https://www.polarsteps.com/HelenDavies3/1370110-new-zealand?s=8B1688B3-E5C3-42AC-B955-EBB91DE6CB6A

Anglesey jaunt

Mike had booked a few days holiday at the end of June, so we decided to go and get a taste of Anglesey. I’d never been before, although Mike apparently visited as a child but couldn’t really remember it. We picked a certified location Caravan club site, which only allows for five pitches, which makes them fairly quiet and are our preference. We have a Bailey Pegasus Verona GT, which is our most luxurious and comfortable van.

Below are manufactures photos of the same van.

Pegasus Verona GT. 65
It’s brilliant having a fixed bed and not having to make up the front seats every night.
The van has a mover that’s fab for manoeuvring into awkward pitches.
I love the large front window that makes the van so light.

So onto the site. We went to Gorsgoch Farm on the Holy Island part of Anglesey, almost as far as you can go. We were obliged to use our own facilities as the site only had electric hook up and waste disposal, but it was no problem as our van has a good toilet and shower .

The blue dot is where we were.


From our large caravan window we had a great view over the fields and sea, which gave us some wonderful sunsets.

From the site we could walk to a heath on the headland called Penrhosfeilw Common or the Range. A beautiful quiet area covered in heather, some very rare wild flowers and lots of birds. We saw skylarks, stonechats, whinchats, skylarks, possibly a rock pipit and linnet, loads of pied wagtails, swallows and house martins, jackdaws and choughs.

We walked from the Range to the next town – Trearddur (Bay) a 9mile round trip in beautiful sunshine and a gentle breeze. It was so quiet.

It was a lovely peaceful “far from the madding crowd” holiday, helped along by the weather, because there’s not much to do there otherwise.

Adel Church

Today I decided to start one of the projects that’s been in my head for a while. I want to start photographing and finding out about the history of the area in which i live. To this end I’ve started locally by finding old buildings and by old I mean at the very least 100 years of age. The older the better.

So I started with one I know well – Adel St. Johns church.

The church is of Norman design built between 1150 and 1170 with alterations made over the years. Its a grade 1 listed building and the mountain g block for those with carriages is grade 2 listed.

The door had iron studs and a 13th century bronze closing ring depicting a man being swallowed by a monster. This was replaced with a replica after the original was stolen in 2002.

The Romans had a fort in Adel and left wells, a temple including alter stones and various other artifact which are in Leeds museum. Before that there was an iron age fort. There was an Anglo Saxon wooden church when Adel and most of Yorkshire was part of the kingdom of Northumbria. Anglo Saxon coffins and the head of a c10 cross have been found – also in Leeds museum.

If you click on the photo above in the left corner, to enlarge it, you can see the grotesque heads, these are called corbels.

The vestry at the back of this photo has a chimney.

Graveyards are fascinating places. You can learn so much from them. The one on the right at the top shows a man who died of cholera – there were a few epidemics in Leeds. The Victorians certainly liked to mark their deaths with some grand monoliths.

Bamburgh

Bamburgh is a beautiful place, totally unspoilt, with a wonderful sand dune backed beach, which stretches as far as the eye can see. Whenever I’ve been its been fairly quiet with folks strolling along the shore, with bare feet in the sea or walking their dogs, who embrace the exhilaration of having the freedom to race along the sand and bound in the water.

And this is the backdrop for Bamburgh Castle which in all its glory, gives the scene its majesty. A photographers dream location. Below are some of mine, which were taken with the iPhone 8 max.